FAQs

No, you only need to release the pressure from the radiator in question. You can do this by closing the connectors (flow and return).

Every winter it's that time of year again. The number of messages about radiators that are suddenly deformed or start to leak increases. The room temperature can drop below zero, particularly in rooms that not heated much in the winter or are not heated at all. These rooms particularly include garages, cellars, bedrooms, guest rooms and attics. However ill-conceived cost awareness of the user can also lead to these problems, particularly if they turn the radiator off at the thermostatic valve or turn off the whole heating system completely.

Everyone knows what happens when you put a full bottle of water in the freezer. The same thing happens in a heating system. Water expands when frozen. However, as it has no room to expand in a radiator full to the top, so great pressure builds up. This pressure can easily reach more than 50 bar. When typical frost damage occurs, the radiator is irregularly deformed. Predominantly in the top and/or bottom water pipe. Furthermore, in most cases, cracks can appear in the coating and a lentil-shaped blistering of the coating occurs over the welding points. Leaks are also not uncommon after thawing.

The basic rule is: Never completely switch off the heating during the heating period! This also applies to long periods of absence. Modern heating controls have settings for frost control or reduced operation mode. The thermostatic valves on your radiator should never be fully closed in winter either. Like the heating controls, they also have a frost protection setting. Further details are provided in the operating instructions of your heating system.

Noises in heating systems can have numerous causes. We can differentiate between noises in the radiator itself and those which, for example, are transmitted by the pipes and then amplified in the radiator. Noises arising from the heating system only occur when in operating mode. If these noises also occur outside of the heating period, it can be assumed that, for example, knocks to the radiator or pipes are to blame. When in operating mode, the radiators themselves are very rarely the source of the noise. A 1 m long radiator expands by about 0.5 mm with a 50 ºC temperature change. Even if sound-dampening brackets are not fitted, this is not enough to produce noises. A specialist is normally able to find the cause of the noise very quickly.

• Clicking (usually shortly before the valve closes): This generally points to inverted flow and return.
• Hissing or whistling: Differential pressure too high due to an excessively large pump or pump stage, no hydraulic balance.
• Gurgling: Air in the radiator.
• Ticking: Tension in the pipes, stiff thermostatic valve.

You can also get an electric version of all products, except for Entreetherm and convectors, taking the minimum dimensions into account. Please ask our technical advisor for support in choosing the correct radiator and heating insert.

Yes. We offer many models with so-called mixed operation modes. Our in-house advisors will be happy to give you more details.

We recommend that you clean your radiator using a damp cloth. Do not use any strong cleaning products or chemicals, as these substances can damage the surface! We also offer several cleaning tools in our accessories range.

Our radiators are available in all the colours you can imagine. RAL, NCS and our “New Inspirations” colour trends are available as well as any other colour you may wish for. Please see our colour chart for examples or contact us!